Hey you lovely lot,

If the logistics gods are on our side, as this lands in your inbox, I’ll be knee-deep in yet another pallet delivery. And trust me, it’s no easy task when the warehouse is tucked away down a residential alley off the Kingsland Road. You can look forward to plenty of exciting new arrivals coming your way over the next few weeks. But for now, I’m taking a moment to revisit a not-so-recent pallet drop that I think has flown under the radar.

This weekend, I cracked open a bottle of Iserand’s Rodeo and *wow* was I floored. For some context, Jean-François ‘Jef’ Malsert is based in the Northern Rhône appellation of St-Joseph. Formerly the owner of the lively wine bar Carafe aux Foillies, where he was an early champion of producers like Dard et Ribo. The same vitality is more than apparent throughout his own releases btw.

The steep slopes of St-Joseph are notorious for being a back-breaking place to tend vines. Many, including Jef’s grandfather, gave up and I don’t blame him, being a vigneron in the post-war years must’ve been tough! But Jef, driven by his winemaking dreams, replanted those vines, and today he works these same plots with just the help of his two mules, Lana and Cassius (see below w/ Gabriel for scale lol). His commitment to organic farming and a minimalist approach in the cellar results in some of the region’s finest wine.

St-Joseph doesn’t always get the same love as its more famous hillside neighbors like Hermitage or Côte-Rôtie, nor is it as wild and brutal as Cornas. But to me, it produces the platonic ideal of Syrah. Balanced, cool wines that are not only approachable but enjoyable in their youth. It’s a large appellation that sometimes leads to it being dismissed. Trust me though, with the right terroir and exceptional farming like Jef’s, you can make world-class wines.

Take Sabots de Coppi, Jef’s incredible Syrah. It’s whole-bunch fermented in amphora and then aged in concrete, giving us a pure, meaty wine in the best possible way. An absolute assault on the senses its herbal, peppery, with a freshness that’s utterly moreish. It’s perfect for this time of year, comforting yet refreshing. If you like that, Lou Taïssou brings similar olive-laden goodness that is screaming out for some food. I can almost hear those sausages sizzlin’.

After something a bit more juicy? Viola has you covered. Full carbo here for a fruit bomb that still carries that signature spiciness. Chilled down alongside some peppery Charcuterie and you’re in for a treat. Alliance is yet another steal. Crowd-pleasing, medium-bodied with loads of brambly fruit and herbal charm. The man does not miss.

The whites are where things get stupid serious Rodeo being easily the best I’ve had from the Rhone. I’m usually not one for whites from these parts, often flabby and flat, but not here. There’s real verve alongside honeyed, ginger-spiced fruit and a mineral finish that’s unforgettable. A soothing hit of chamomile too. I can still taste it. On day two things where not just good for the region, but this was one of the most memorable whites I’ve EVER drank. It was a refreshing change of pace in terms of flavour profile, this is single varietal Roussane after all, but this left a vivid impressive that I just can’t shake. It’s pretty limited, so I’d recommend going hard whilst you can.

Jef’s Chasselas is another standout. Think Gonon-style quality at a fraction of the price. Direct-pressed into amphora for fermentation and aging, it’s round, zesty, and beautifully structured with delicate grip. We can’t forget Le Délire de Coppi with a touch of skin contact for texture, offering orange peel and a bitter twist meaning the gastronomic potential here is endless. Gonon, Chave, Dard et Ribo (some hiding for drink-in only at Dan’s BTW) and Herve Souhat might be more well known but Jef’s wines can more than match the regions heavyweights, if not outshine them. All this whilst remaining somewhat affordable and more importantly actually available. Though probably not for long…

By the way, Jef and his wife Saida will be in town next month! Their tasting at Dan’s sold out in record time. Thankfully, Saida (a chef by trade) will be joining Fergus on the burners at Ken’s on Thursday the 13th. Having seen the menu, I guarantee this is not one you’ll want to skip. Book here to avoid disappointment.

Sorry for the word vomit, but I’m just really excited about these wines…LYSM

Fionn

xoxo