BACK ON MY NATTY BS

Hey,

I’m continuing the Austrian theme this week, seeing as I recently had such a great tasting of the new Gut Oggau release. Their striking labels have become pretty cult-like, often gateway bottles for people getting into wine. Guilty as charged… But I do feel like they’ve become a bit divisive in the current 2025 climate. The ‘branding’ makes some corners of the natural wine world look down on them a bit. You know, like when a band hits the mainstream and suddenly they’re not cool anymore. Well, what actually matters? Well, to me it is exceptional farming, sensitive winemaking and most importantly that what’s inside the bottle is tasty. These over-deliver on all the above.

Seriously, having tasted these wines over the past few years, I don’t think I’ve ever been as pleased as I am with this release. 2023 just seems to be a strong year across the board, Burgenland being no exception. Theodora clocks in at just 10.5% ABV and is so sharp and precise, still with texture and that classic varietal white pepper spice. Timotheus gets a touch of Weissburgunder in the blend, which adds weight without losing any vitality. One to age or ponder on.

Winifred has always been a surefire winner, but this is hitting harder than ever. Flavour dialed up and deliciousness doubled down on. Cecilia, for me, drinks more like a delicate orange wine with its blood orange bitters, zest and watermelon. Both perfect for this incoming heatwave.

Atanasius, often the most temperamental of the family, feels mature and restrained here. A subtle spritz gives lift, but it never veers into the funky or overly fuzzy. The best iteration to date.

Josephine, though, was the one who really floored me. Roesler is the grape, a 1970s hybrid, that shows absolute class. Hands down, one of the best hybrids I’ve ever tasted (most others were more experimental pours at fairs around Europe). It poured deep, inky, and almost intimidating. The nose is concentrated, too. But the palate? Wow. So fresh, so much acidity. Tastes like summer pudding, that slightly odd, bread-based dessert I grew up with. Drinking this was one of those rare moments where you're instantly taken back to a memory. Only the best wines can do that. Quantities are small, so definitely check it out.

We’re going full-on ‘natty’ this week with a splash of Matassa. Tom Lubbe, in my opinion, is one of the most influential vignerons in France.  Maybe even the world? No one is doing what he’s doing in this arid corner of the south. His dedication to healthy soils and vines in such a tough growing region is genuinely inspiring.

Most vineyards are 60–120 years old, co-planted with various varieties on schist and marl, and produce tiny yields. Everything’s worked naturally, no chemicals, and biodynamic and plant-based preparations are used to support soil health and biodiversity.

Whites are whole-bunch basket pressed. Reds are whole-bunch fermented with one pigéage to get things going, then usually pressed off halfway through fermentation. Fermentation finishes in old demi-muids and large Austrian barrels, where they also go through malo. It’s worth mentioning Tom’s mentorship over the years has shaped many of today’s top growers. Craig Hawkins, Martin Wörner, the Renner siblings, to name but a few.

We’ve got some of his entry-level blends in now, all under 11%. That’s wild for the Roussillon. Olla Rouge is exactly what you want to smash when the sun’s out. Light but with a real garrigue-tinged backbone. Olla Blanc is aromatic, energetic, and made for generous pours on balmy afternoons. Cuvée Marguerite is just a tropical joy! My pick of the bunch, so glad to finally have some on the shelves. Benchmark bottles, taste and see.

Finally, a little wildcard from the Savoie to finish, one of my favourites. It’s Chasselas, but with a steely, reductive edge that makes it feel more Jura than Alpine. He worked with Ganevat and is just over the border, so it tracks. I remember Megan and I smashed a bottle after a warehouse shift. It was energising. As the bar descended into chaos, she jumped on the floor and absolutely killed it. Me? Energised in a different way… opening expensive Burgundy… attempting (failing) to saber some fizz... less said the better.

LYSM

Fionn
xox