BADEN BOUGIE (BEST OF BADEN)

Source note: This post is adapted from Parched's August 18, 2026 newsletter

Hey,

If you are unfamiliar with the work of Wasenhaus, I implore you to acquaint yourself immediately. I consider these wines to be some of the finer things on planet Earth, and certainly the pinnacle of what's coming out of Germany right now.

This small estate has earned international acclaim in just under a decade. It's the project of Alexander Götze and Christoph Wolber. Yes, Basti's brother.

The pair of Germans bonded when one of them was looking to rent a room while working in Burgundy. Naturally, they got put in touch and the rest is history. While in the region they both racked up experience at some of the very best addresses: Comte Armand, Bernard van Berg, Leflaive, de Montille, Pierre Morey and Domaine de la Vougeraie. Big flex. Alex was even vineyard manager at de Montille until 2021 while getting the project was still getting fully set up back home.

Their will obviously then be comparisons between Burgundy and Baden with similar geography and, in some areas, soil type. It's only a two-hour drive west, after all. That said, their wines feel distinctly "Baden" and now serve as a reference point. German clones often have different traits from Pinot in Burgundy; they can be more vigorous, with larger bunches, but I really like Spätburgunder when it's handled properly with some TLC.

Despite 80% of Baden's production still going into co-operatives, there are some truly exceptional vineyards. Often unwanted due to being steep, so they must be worked by hand. Bad for the big boys, great for artisanal upstarts. Plots like this simply are inaccessible in the Côte d'Or to young winemakers. Yet, Wasenhaus have essentially been able to work  the equivalent of 1er, and Grand Cru level sites from the start.

Farming is, as expected, exceptional and organic with elements of biodynamics woven in. Where they source fruit growers must also meet their high standards.

Winemaking is low-intervention but of real detail given their combined CV’s. They work with an old press, whites are whole-cluster pressed and aged in neutral barrels of varying sizes. Reds are fermented in open-top vats and then aged in neutral oak too, with whole-cluster use varying by vintage and site. Everything is fermented with natural yeasts, bottled unfined and unfiltered, and sulfur is used only minimally, when necessary, at bottling.

We start with their vin de soif, Grand Ordinaire, that is anything but ordinary. Carbonic Pinot that is pressed after only 10 days. Essentially, it's Baden's answer to Beaujolais, a cooler climate here too, with the verticality of the Beaujolais of old. This should come with a warning as I've yet to taste something as dangerous as this in the drinkability department. Zero SO2. It's so bright and crunchy, uplifting with its raspberry fruit and subtle herbal nuance. Don't be fooled by the carefree, easygoing nature. To make something this tasty you've got to be seriously good winemakers. Alex and Christoph are two of the best on planet Earth IMO.

Spätburgunder that doesn't suck right here. There's a bit more florals and crunch of fruit in the German clone, not a bad thing in my eyes, and when handled like this you understand why the world of wine is paying serious attention to Baden. High toned and vivid. When we had to move the old warehouse, me and J (RIP) sat in the empty warehouse waiting for some guys to collect the last remaining bits of unwanted clutter. We picked up a pizza, sat on the floor and deleted this in no time. Great memories.

Same deal with their "village" Chardo. Perfect balance and made to drink young, it's equal parts texture, acid and aromatics. Vibrant and easy to drink without sacrificing complexity. It really reminds me of Pataille Chardonnay Rose. There is just something so compelling about these racy, fresh German acid lines that has recently gone missing in some Burg due to the increasingly hot world we live. I’ve also been guilty of deleting a bottle of this with ex-colleagues, the wine was also gone remarkably quickly from the bottle.

We then welcome in a few older wines that we've been kindly gifted from the precious cellars of dear friends. Tiny amounts.

Filzen 2021, their OG Chardo from the steepest slopes they work with, all on limestone. Drank the '19 a couple of days ago and it was one hell of a journey. Same deal here, a bit shy at first, it fleshes out into a lactic, leesy beast with plenty of Vegemite-like umami. Reminds me of top Chablis from Thomas Pico. Decant or drink over a few days IMO. I’d say at it’s peak now. Just 2.

Just 1 bottle of Bellen Weissburgunder. From their second vintage in ‘17! Aged Pinot Blanc is something I’ve only seen the Italian’s master, until tasting one of these. Yikes. They made just one barrel, 262 bottles. Number 110. Collectors item.

Vulkan is a unique Pinot from a plot of volcanic soil. All rose and Pinot spice up front, before things take a turn into a real volcanic, mineral finish. '21 has again  had a couple of years in bottle to really come together into a beautiful thing. Thank me later for sorting out the aging for ya.

German wine geeks should now pay attention. Kanzel is part of the old Ölberg with a slightly more eastern exposition; thus the site is a bit colder and less exposed to the sun. Half of the vines here are a French selection massale planted by Dr. Henrik Möbitz; the other half of the vines are older German clones. Wasenhaus took the site over in 2020. Möbitz wines are mythical and of true Unicorn status in Germany. This is essentially, Grand Cru level. This vintage saw 50% whole cluster. It's a bit of an IYKYK bottle. The fruit here is darker, denser and more blue. The most structured Pinot, with complexity through the roof. Built for the ages. Vin de garde. Rare as. Just 2.

Rly having a thing for German wines atm. Some other bits you should probably be drinkin’.

Lukas Hammelmann, crazy Spatburgunder, wicked Riesling.

Marto! Cote de Flon is my go-to summer wine.

An orange wine that actually looks and tastes like ORANGES.

Kissinger-Bahr Riz that neighbours Keller. Chardo is bombastic too.

Staffelter Hof giving the Mosel a Modern twist.

Prum keeping Mosel trad.

ALL GERMAN BITS HERE.

Küsschen
Fionn
xoxo