CHENIN 2 HYDRATE U

Hey,

Fionn reporting in after a little research trip to the Loire last week. After five days of consuming roughly my body weight in meat and cheese, and with Chenin Blanc still coursing through my veins, you’d think I’d be feeling anything but refreshed. But weirdly, I feel just that. Inspired, even. Tasting, walking the vineyards, breaking bread with winemakers. It reminds me just how lucky I am to call this ‘work’. It almost makes all those pallets and boxes worth it, right?

The trip was all killer, no filler, you’ll hear me bang on about it for weeks. I don’t think we had a single dud bottle. The crème de la crème though was a visit to Thibaud Boudignon. Ex-judo champ turned laser-focused winemaker. Thibaud aim is to make the best wine he possibly can. Not just a marketing rhetoric either, this is backed up by the whole operation. The vineyard team is huge for the size of the project, the cellar is state-of-the-art, and his love for Anjou Blanc borders on obsessive. It’s kinda insane how detailed everything was. Every decision was carefully thought out to achieve that end goal; there was no stone left unturned, no money was spared, and all in the name of Chenin. What a king, got the budget of one too.

The Anjou Blanc is often blended with fruit from his top sites; not something you see every day in the entry point. Thirst-quenching with a zing of acidity, it’s hydration in a glass. It’s a stupidly precise bottle that far outweighs the price tag.  He was pretty adamant about this being an excellent intro to the range, because he’s right, if your first taste of a winemaker isn’t great, you’re unlikely to want to dive in for more. Divin’ in for more is exactly what you need to be doing btw. If this is being poured BTG at 3 Michelin-starred spots across France (apparently atleast 19 lol), I’d say it’s good enough for your dinner table too…

Cuvée à François(e) was a personal favourite and a favourite of Thiabuds too. Fleshy yet taut, complexity somehow goes through the roof whilst drinkability remains high. The kind of Chenin you’d never get bored of. Finally, Clos de la Hutte is one of the finest Chenin’s I’ve tasted, if not one of the finest wines I’ve ever tasted. It is a stunning plot that feels more like a perfectly kept garden than a vineyard. Thibaud’s focus on clonal diversity here (10 +) is all about getting the most balanced expression. Every clone is pulling its weight, adding a layered dimension to a saline bottling thanks to lots of schist. Tiny production, a future classic, if it isn’t already.

On a slightly less classic but just-as-delicious note, we’ve got new wines from Batardiere protégées Margot et Natalia. Here Chenin gets a bit of skin contact before being blended with direct-pressed Cab Franc. The result is one of the most enjoyable, thought-provoking skin-contact wines I’ve had in ages. There's also a feather-light Grolleau, all brambly and herbal. Is it a light red? A rosé? You decide. Their two Chenins are also back in stock and somehow they just keep getting better with time in bottle.

Speaking of pink, we’ve just taken in a new wine from Hannah Fuellenkemper aka Abracadabra. Hot Girls 3, is very appropriately named for the weather, and one of my friends called it the best thing I’ve ever poured them. And I’ve poured them a lot... They're no wine expert, but they know a good time when it's in their glass. Think sun-kissed tropical fruit atop a mineral core. Strays of the whole range here.

Also worth your attention: new drops from Buronfosse. If you missed out on that Ganevat last week, I know I did whilst I was "Ganevating" around France, these will more than make up for it. Literal neighbours in Rotalier, they are IMO one of the most criminally underrated producers, not just in the Jura, but in all of France. They are not only available in good quantities, they are actually somewhat affordable…

The reds are lithe, pretty, and dangerously drinkable, especially with a light chill on a day like today. The whites, meanwhile, are timeless expressions of grape and place, capable of rewarding drinkers for decades to come. In Wink Lorch’s latest release Jura Wine: Ten Years On, she notes that the future of the estate is uncertain (I won’t go into the details here). But after blagging my way into a cellar visit earlier this year, one thing I’m certain of is the remarkable quality coming from this humble cellar. Hauntingly beautiful, I can still taste them now.

There are also plenty of tastings at Dan’s you can get stuck into. The latest announcement was that we’ll be joined by the iconic Mee Goddard on the 9th for a masterclass in fine-boned Gamay. Expect older vintages, excellent chat and large pours. Speaking of large pours, unlimited English booze at our Full English too. That should be enough to keep you cool this week but if you wanna chat wine HMU.

LYSM,

Fionn
xoxo