FOSSILS ARE FUN !

Hey,

How are we all doing? Enjoying the last of the sun? Not me. I’m tearing my hair out trying to navigate the big smoke during this tube strike. If you’re one of those lucky ones who can ‘wfh’, I’m envious. Thankfully, you don’t need to leave your home if you want the good wine. We do all the hard work for you.

Anyway, we just got our hands on a limited allocation from one of my favorite Champagne producers, Legrand Latour! I’ve only really done damage on these in France; they don’t pop up too often on our shores. That’s probably a good thing for the wallet. But If you like geology + vinous fizz, this one’s 4 u.

Thibault Legrand is the third generation of his family to grow grapes in Fleury-la-Rivière. For years most of the fruit went to the co-op. Thibault’s father, Patrice, was a fossil fanatic at heart. What started as a hobby in 2004 became a full-blown obsession that eventually led to the creation of a hand-carved, mile-long cave dug 300 meters into the hillside. Today, it’s a museum, La Cave aux Coquillages, dedicated to preserving and showcasing sea creatures from 45 million years ago, back when the Paris Basin was still underwater during the Lutetian period. It’s quite the Champagne cellar, blending geology, paleontology, and wine under one roof! I can understand why he didn’t have time to start messing around in the cellar, the man had caves to dig!

Thibault though, inspired by his childhood friend Flavien Nowack, eventually took over the family estate and decided to chart a new path. He converted the vineyards to organic farming, then went fully biodynamic a while later, a shift that completely transformed the land and the wines. He then stopped selling off fruit and began to bottle his own gear. Taking inspiration from his father’s passion for the past, Thibault doesn't organize his wines by grape variety, but by the geological age of the soils they grow in. Nerdy, but cool.

In the cellar, he keeps things simple. Fermentation happens in barrel with native yeasts, sulfur is used sparingly (only when necessary), and nothing is pumped as everything moves by gravity. Thibault also takes an unconventional approach to secondary fermentation. Starting with the 2020 vintage, he adopted the “Agrapart Method”. Here, fresh, unfrozen juice from the following year is used for the ‘prise de mousse’. This approach is not only the way to achieve a Champagne of 100% pure juice, but it also adds no alcohol to the wine, unlike traditional sugar mixture additions. This means Thibault can pick at true phenolic ripeness in the vineyard without fear of elevated alcohol. This I believe to be the key factor in why his wines are so vinous.

Once bottled, the wines are aged for 30 to 40 months on cork in his cool, humidity-controlled caves. Evolving patiently in the same underground cave as all those ancient seashells. The house style is fizz that isn’t that fizzy. Oxidative leaning in the best way whilst still showing off pure fruit. Gastronomic. Something you should decant and marvel over. Some of the most profound wines money can buy (IMO).

Éocène is the leanest and meanest. With time citrus and slate turns into dried orchard fruit and spice. Yprésien is Meunier dominant and as such we get some nice white spice and citric drive before the full on umami journey takes place. Lutétien is the most vinous, brooding expression. Savoury and seductive. Very limited! So be quick.

Outside fossils? We’ve got another allocation of weapon grade Loire. I geeked out over these here and here. Trust me, these are one for the real heads. Limited again.

Not all exxy stuff though. Bargains to be had with this lazer fresh Beaujo blanc from icons Cambon. Rheinhessen Riesling that has gone straight into the weeknight white rotation. Muscadet showing it’s unparalleled value here and here. This though for just a few quid more drinks like Grand Cru Oyster wine! Sheesh.

Finally a Pet-nat from Wales. Yep, you read that right. Ancre hill enjoys a warming microclimate and is one of the driest places in the UK. It was raining cats and dogs on my visit last year… But still I believe them, and this is a whole lot of fun. They’re biodynamic pioneers here in the UK and this bottle has come on leaps and bounds in recent years. Hedgerows and damson, honestly nothing captures this time of year better.

PLUS FINAL CALL FOR OUR TASTING WITH AMBER OF OCHOTA BARRELS TONIGHT! DON’T LET A TUBE STRIKE STOP YOU. WELL WORTH WALKING ACROSS LONDON FOR. I’M GONNA STICK AROUND SO COME SAY HI + DRINK NICE THINGS!

Fionn