Bruno farms 6ha organically near the town of Rablay-sur-Layon, working with biodynamics in the vines. He's a calm, considered guy who'd rather be in the vines than anywhere else, and over the past decade he's built a reputation as one of the most fastidious farmers in the region. Half the vineyard is Chenin Blanc, the rest split between Cabernet Franc and Grolleau, with some vines pushing 100 years old.

In the cellar he's hands-off, vinifying by parcel and variety and bottling by the lunar calendar. The wines are full of interest. Precise and well-made, they only get better over a few days open.