Etienne Bodet, Clos Durandière 2022
Place: Loire, France
Grape: Cabernet Franc
Vibe: Classic
This clos is tucked behind the walls of the Château de la Durandière, which belongs to Étienne’s family, and is bordered by the neighbouring forest. The vineyard is just one of only 20 hectares in Saumur sitting on Bathonian limestone from the Jurassic period, rather than the more typical tuffeau. It’s an early-ripening, well-draining site with limited vigor and active limestone. Étienne’s goal here is to make the most ethereal, elegant wine possible. Mission accomplished.
The Clos Rougeard comparisons are accurate on the level of sheer quality, the used barrels are also apparently from that esteemed cellar. That said, I think this very much stands alone in a world of its own. The limestone brings a driving verticality meaning it can be approached younger, and also we see a small amount of whole bunch, which I find can be tricky to pull off with Cab Franc. It brings a savoury freshness, without ever drifting green. This is so elegant without losing varietal typicity. Shot straight to the top of my list of Cab Franc. ABV: 12%