Tasted with Jade last week. Hard not to be impressed with her career. She started out in politics and international relations, completing a masters in Human Rights, before pivoting to cooking. Formally trained in Paris, she went on to stage at some of the world's best restaurants. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, D.O.M in São Paulo, El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, and finally Mugaritz, where she climbed from intern to Head Chef before leading their R&D. All before the age of 26. Makes me feel old.

Then a new challenge came calling. Wine had caught her attention at the restaurants she worked in, friendships with winemakers in Rioja followed, and eventually she settled in the small Spanish town of San Vicente de la Sonsierra. Her first release in 2019 sold out immediately. The hype has built steadily since, and after tasting last week I can confirm it's well earned.

Unlike a lot of Rioja, the approach here is more nuanced. Oak is French and subtly handled. No vanilla bombs. Extraction varies across the range but there's always freshness, a whole bunch lift and a vibrant sense of place.