Lukas Hammelmann, Riesling Trocken Solera NV

Place: Pfalz, Germany

Grape: Riesling

Vibe: Classic

Sh*t hot. The house style leans heavily into a more textural style of Riesling. There's richness on show but lifted by a wonderfully fine reduction. This is a blend of vintages from '19 to '23. Barrels are topped up but without any sulphur, so we get a smidge of flor-derived oxidative character. Originally started as an experiment, I hope this is a permanent fixture in the line-up. There's freshness and drinkability in spades, yet real complexity built in too. On top of that, the fruit comes from the Grand Cru Klostergarten, yet due to bureaucracy, and this being a humble Landwein, it's not allowed on the label. This is a very special bottle of wine. This is also just the starting point. My wallet's in trouble.