FUTURE LOIRE LEGEND :)

Hey,

Hope you're all good? It’s been a bit silly with the good wines around here lately, and the fun doesn’t look like stopping anytime soon. This latest allocation might not carry the same hype as some recent drops, but the quality is on par.

Still flying under the radar here, but very much an insider tip in France. I first became aware when Pascaline Lepeltier raved about them. I trust her palate, so I was keen to track one down. Yet, even whilst in the region I couldn’t find any… It was looking bleak. Then, suddenly, out of the blue, the whole range was being poured for me at a tasting last week. Life’s good sometimes.

This is Anjou Noir at its finest. Stéphane learned his craft alongside Cyril Fahl and more closely with the legendary Foucault family of Domaine du Collier and Clos Rougeard back in the Loire. Collier isn’t imported here. Clos Rougeard would require me to sell off a kidney. Thankfully, these wines are here to scratch that elite Loire itch.

He started in 2011, taking over 3.7 ha of multiple plots that had been organically farmed for the last 25 years. In particular, he has a unique terroir for his Cab Franc, which sits on a vein of charcoal that crosses the Layon. Vinification takes place in a tuffeau cave. Everything ferments in carefully selected larger oak from top coopers (some new). The key to great wine is time. Stéphane is one of the few vignerons who has us drinkers in mind. Everything sees ageing, 12 months for the Grolleau, at least 18 months for the others. Once bottled, the wine is given more time to relax. This unrushed approach brings out wines of striking purity that are now in optimal drinking condition.

The Chenin especially benefits. 2020 is just now hitting its stride. Deep, layered, and textural. A very serious, contemplative wine. A welcome shift from the bright, zippy 2023s I’ve been raving about as we transition into colder nights. Easily one of the best whites I’ve had all year.

The reds showcase minerality over fruit. The Grolleau is purple and plush. Wild berry and spice. Then come two single-site Cabernet Francs that are both exceptional, and both completely distinct despite coming from vineyards just a short stroll apart. Les Mines, from darker soils, is brooding, earthen, and truffle-like in its savoury appeal. One hell of a wine. I want food and a roaring fire. Carbone leans fresher and more floral, with a beautiful fluidity. I want to pop the cork and not share the bottle.

The allocation is tiny, but these are future classics (if they’re not already). Perfectly timed for the seasonal switch, I’d take a chance while you can…

As I type, a fresh pallet from the Beaujolais OG Georges Descombes has rocked up. We’ve topped up on the ‘entry level’ bottlings which continue to deliver outrageous value.

The new Brouilly, from a cooler vintage, is somehow even more drinkable than the last iteration. The Morgon brings Cru quality at half the price of its more famous peers. Please don’t sleep on the Beaujolais Blanc. This is proper Chardonnay grown within spitting distance of top-tier Burgundy. I can’t explain how hard it is to find Chardonnay that doesn’t suck yet is somewhat affordable. This is the real deal. In great supply, priced to pour, stupidly moreish. It’s a miracle!

We’ve also got a small stash of older vine Cru bottlings left. A nice scattering of vintages, all showing the graceful side of Gamay with age. Again, a lot cheaper than high-end Burgundy but still scratching a similar itch.

Speak soon,
Fionn
xoxo