LOOKING OLD, FEELING NEW

G’day,

Feels very much like huge event central over here yet again, with Jumi Cheese joining us to make all your darkest dreams come true on the 8th of October, before Monsieur Bain does similar tricks with his Sauvignon Blanc the following week - 2 seats left for that one. Hectic.

Then there’s the true biggie, Beaujolais Ancien. Fionn dropped this on Tuesday and tickets are flying for what is one of the tastiest piss ups each year. We’ve recently had, and imminently are due to have, fresh arrivals from the majority of our Beaujolais producers, and these will be supplemented as per by iconic bottles from the region. It’s always good, and I have a slightly scary feeling this year is going to be better… tickets available here until they aren’t.

Does writing about Australian wine that I don’t import give me further legitimacy? Only time will tell.

I’d been reading lovely notes about this dude Mark Bulman and what he was doing with Grenache from beautifully named vineyards like Gary’s and Glen’s, but before I had the chance to chirps him, someone else did. We finally got to taste them in the real a few weeks ago and I’m mildly salty, but that’s how things go. We took our allocation and here we are.

Glen’s first. This is Eden Valley fruit from the Stonegarten Vineyard, planted in 1857. Yeah, 18. No oak, just beautiful maceration on the skins pre, during and post ferment before heading to sandstone amphora for about 6 months. A sensual, complex beauty.

Gary’s, from Blewitt Springs, which is A-list in terms of Australian Grenache atm. The vineyard itself is 100 years younger than Stonegarten, and was only grafted over to Grenache in 2007. He let this hang on the skins for 71 days post ferment, before a spell in sandstone amphora that matches up with Glen’s. Harmony. Here’s your beast, but in the polished, post transformational stage from the Disney classic.

Both are hedonistic consumption, in the deftest, most thought provoking way.

There’s not much, but what’s here is right here.

To celebrate the fact that Australian Grenache is likely pound for pound the best in the world, we’re unlocking a bit of maturing Comando G from cold storage… here’s a little re-release of several of the breath-taking cru’s from 2022. These are widely considered by the classic northern hemisphere inhabitants to be near the pinnacle of red wine. We also love them. I had parked these away for my future self, but am feeling generous as I sip on my Mythos and gaze into the Aegean. Sorry. It’s actually warmer in London today than where I am, if that makes you feel any better.

And finally, because it wouldn’t be a celebration without corks popping, our juicy allocation from Jerome Prevost is ready to fly. Tiny quantities of Les Beguines Grand Cru and the Hens Teeth Status Fac-Simile Rose are here. Bucket list booze if ever I seen it. Do the thing here.

Don’t say I didn’t warn you, we missed October.

Dan

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