MIDWEEK WINNERS + WINES WORTH A WEEKEND SPLURGE

Hey :)

Hope you had a good weekend? Mine was spent recovering from taking in a whopping 9 pallets on Friday. More on that later... It was rough, but worth it to get you the good stuff! Aren’t I kind. That said, I think it’s time to take out insurance on my back. I’m not getting any younger after all.

Thankfully, all just superficial and short-term damage. A bit of wine and a bit of rest (if you count a hero shift at the bar as rest) sorted me out. While there's been lots of baller bottles lately, it might come as a shock to hear that the wine biz is still very much a pursuit of passion, not profit. And while I do spend a hefty chunk of my wages on wine, here are a few things to tide you and me over ‘til payday.

First up, a cute little Loire duo! The Bainbridges aren’t your usual French winemakers; they’re originally from Oklahoma and the UK. So maybe there’s hope for me yet... They’ve worked with the likes of Mosse & co and their wines are so much fun. Made for drinking, not overthinking. I mean that in the best way, too.

Cuvée Crush is a juicy delight. The clue’s in the name. Have this chilled with good company. Minimum two bottles will be required. The Grolleau Gris is just as joyful. Direct press, floral, citrusy, spritzy, and low in ABV. A midweek dream.

And if you're into things with a more orange hue, there's this skinsy Italian number in the same playful spirit. Energetic and wild. Ideal for these last few evenings outdoors. Drinks beautifully solo or alongside whatever’s on the table.

Now, some bottles worth saving / savouring / splurging on.

I’ve held back a small stash from a recent Champagne allocation that is now available online, or in the bar if you’re quick.

Émilien’s wines are stunning. His agroforestry approach is as inspiring as it is borderline finaically mad. To actively pursue such low yielding vines in a storied region is incredibly admirable. I tasted them last week and haven’t stopped thinking about them. Properly special stuff. This is the best fizzy pink I’ve tasted. I can’t afford this quite yet… One day.

A little more wallet-friendly, but still very serious is Nowack. A grower building quite the reputation. This bottle’s a great intro to the house style while we wait on a wider allocation. Rich, complex, gastronomic. Everything I want in my top end bubbly.

All base wines spend time under cork, not crown cap in this cellar. That makes disgorging a total nightmare (and more costly), but it’s worth it. This process gives the base wine time to develop into something far more layered. Basically, they’re making silly serious base wines, then adding in a little fizz. Hats off to Flavien as it’s rare to see this level of attention at this price point.

And finally, Bastian Wolber! Our allocation was pathetically small... but better than nothing. Demand is through the roof, and rightly so.

Basti’s résumé is pretty impressive. What was supposed to be a harvest with Ganevat got cut short by an skateboarding accident. Instead of feeling sorry for himself this ended up kickstarting his project back home in Germany, sourcing negoce fruit where he could. He then spent time with Trossen in the Mosel and at Bizot in Burgundy. Eventually, he moved full-time to Bourgogne, working in the cult-y shared cellar of Mr Santini. Check out these wines, can’t believe there is any left tbh. The same space that gave us Dandelion, Vin Noé, Arnaud Lopez... you get the idea. Oh, and his brother founded Wasenhaus. Just casual name drops left, right and centre.

My younger brother (hi Scott, if you’re reading) just came back from harvest there with nothing but high praise. Judging by how much good wine they were drinking, it’s safe to say Basti has a seriously esteemed palate and it shows in spades with this release. The house style is ethereal. Whole-cluster, semi-carbonic. The Bizot influence is clear as day.

Vinification begins with a cool, temperature-controlled intracellular fermentation. Over the following days, the grapes gradually collapse under their own weight or are gently crushed by foot. This process unlocks a distinctive aromatic profile. Think lots of floral notes and spicy nuances. On the palate, it yields a vivid expression of fruit with a silky texture and lively freshness. Chef’s kiss.

Laisse Tomber is made with fruit from standout growers. Volnay here. Pretty Pommard here. But what’s really exciting is that, for the first time, he’s releasing stuff from his own plots. This and this are ridiculously good.

Yes, they’re a splurge but with the way things are going I don’t see these getting much cheaper anytime soon... No crazy mark up despite the hype. We play fair. Comfortably cheaper than what Hedonism are flogging it for, just sayin’. One of the above is £70 quid more over in Mayfair… Round Dalston way things are much more reasonable.

That’s all for now. I’ve just been tasting around London and there’s loads of good stuff on the way. Thursday’s email is gonna be a blast. My back is back functioning. My palate’s been put to practice. Nature is healing.

ILY,

Fionn

xoxo