Hey, you’ve got Fionn again. Making it a hat-trick of emails... Promise Megan will be back soon, for both your sake and mine! However, nothing stops the good wines rolling through these doors, so let’s get straight to it.

Things have been a little top-heavy recently, so it’s nice to have some fresh stock offering some proper value. Let me introduce Fletcher. An Aussie with a self-confessed addiction to Nebbiolo that has somehow led him to its spiritual home in the Langhe hills. Based out of the old Barbaresco train station, he is now firmly at home here, pushing out exceptional wines at all ends of the pricing scale. The Langhe punches above its weight, a classy and approachable Nebbiolo that doesn’t break the bank. Sadly, skin contact wines are a bit of a rarity in this part of the world, but Fletcher’s Arcarto puts both Arneis and Moscato to good use, crafting a tangerine-laced bottle that’s screaming out for Apero hour.

This week also saw a long-overdue arrival from Alexandre Bain. If you’re looking for traditional Pouilly-Fumé, then these are not for you. Looking for terroir-specific, highly compelling wines? Then you’re in luck. Everything is vinified by site to best accentuate the different terroirs of his numerous plots. Slow basket pressing extracts phenolics, and for once, someone has allowed Sauvignon to go through full malo. Long aging before release in cement or wood also makes up the house style. These are radically different from the Pouilly-Fumé you’d find on the supermarket shelves and as such Alex lost the appellation a few years ago when it was deemed by a panel on behalf of the local authority that his wines did not reflect the ‘style’ of the appellation. I guess, they’re probably right in the sense that they would mislead the average consumer. Would that be a bad thing? No. This is what REAL Pouilly-Fumé should taste like.

La Levee is autumnal leaning with rich golden fruit, lots of minerals and a nutty finish. The acidity is bracing, but not overwhelming, and is very much needed to keep the perfect balance between tension and ripeness. Considering the work and age gone into this, I’d also say it was a bargain. L d'Ange blew my mind the first time I tried it and I still can’t get my head around it, in the best possible way. A limestone heavy parcel where some fruit gets a bit of love from botrytis. So as you’d expect, this is luscious and enticing on first sniff but the palate is bone-dry and rocky. There is no reference point here, these are totally unique, must try bottles.

Also, we’ve got some new gear in from Anders & Anne. Yep, I’m back on my natty BS. These aren’t for everyone, and certainly not for the faint of heart. However, some of the most moving wines I’ve drunk have come from this cellar. If your IG feed is anything like mine then the comment sections under any content featuring these bottles always spark heated debate. Love ‘em or hate ‘em that’s not for me to decide. I though very much love these for their wild, unique expression of year and place. Very limited and already moving quick so get a move on!

Syrah, pink + pet-nat is a combo I can’t get enough of and this ticks all the boxes and then some. Fruity, with a hint of spice and soft bubbles. This is also richly aromatic with just enough grip. I’ve had this one twice recently—once in Paris and once with J from Dan’s fame. Both times the bottle disappeared in minutes. I’m not entirely sure if this is a rosé? But, I am sure it’s delicious. Both grenaches are picked nice and ripe before a silly long, slow press to bring out a little oxidative character. Grapefruit-y with a wonderful use of bitters on the back end. Finally, a ripe Grenache that I don’t hate. It’s got a touch of volatile acidity that pushes the fruit into a whole new realm of deliciousness. Bone dry, but there is a distant memory of sugar which is something Jacques Néauport would say according to Anders. I really get it, though. The fruit is plush and sweet but not cloying or heavy. I’m cellaring this one, but you do you!

That’s all! Speak soon! Love you!

Fionn

xoxo